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Photographing Fireworks -
Capture the Spectacle!
Predictable as the changing seasons,
some to the world’s most spectacular fireworks return
regularly to communities throughout America on July 4th.
As much fun as they are to watch, fireworks are equally
as exciting to photograph. Shooting these incredible
light shows give photographers continuous opportunities
to capture these events on film, test and improve
individual photographic skills and techniques.
As in buying real estate, the three
most important things one must have to photograph a
fireworks show are: location, location, location!
Landmarks – when able, include local
landmark to identify shots
Upwind – to avoid smoke – it
blocks shot and can be uncomfortable
Distance – ¼ to ½ mile away for
large aerial displays (farther with zoom)
50-100 yards on ground displays
One mistake many photographers make is
to get too close. The use of positive and negative (dark
sky) space is important. One must not only capture the
moving fireworks, but also design the frame by also
using the open sky and landmarks.
The kind of camera makes no
difference, as long as you can manually control it.
Photographing fireworks is much different than normal
photography in that you are shooting light sources
rather than reflected light. Many of the rules change.
Automatic exposures will always fail. One must have
control of both shutter speed and f/stops. Almost any
lens, wide-angle to telephoto to zoom will work.
Prints or slides, makes no difference,
only your preference. Tungsten film can make buildings
with artificial lighting look more natural. Daylight
film will give warmer saturation and truer color to the
fireworks.
Here is a chart that will give you a
fighting chance at being a successful fireworks
photographer.
| ASA |
25-40 |
50-80 |
100-160 |
200-400 |
| Aerial |
f/5.6 |
f/8 |
f/11 |
f/16-22 |
| Ground |
1/30 |
1/30 |
1/30 |
1/60 |
|
f/1.9 |
f/2.8 |
f/4 |
f/4-5.6 |
In the beginning, bracketing is
essential to any success – start out with a game plan
and take plenty of notes. Aerial shells should be shot
from a tripod with a locking cable release with exposure
setting of "B" (Bulb). The trick is to have
the shutter open just in time to catch the burst.
Some fireworks have "tails"
that follow the shell up. You may or may not want to
include these in your photographs. Expose accordingly. Watch
the first few shells notice that the shells rise to
specific heights. If you look closely, you can see the
shell rise and just before it bursts, it will slow down.
Now you know when it will burst – you have the height
and the speed to help you. Determine which elevation(s)
you want to capture and set your tripod for it. Exposure
times vary from one second to as much as 15 seconds or
more.
Some professionals leave the shutter
open and use a black cardboard to cover the lens. He
watches and uncovers to capture the bursts and gets
multiple images on the same frame. He can even pick and
choose colors, thus designing the color content and/or
size of shell that goes into the specific frame.
In most shows, the better shells and
intensity are in the latter portion. Save your ammo.
Most public shows run from 15 to 20 minutes. With this
size show, there is time enough in these to reload a
couple of times if you are quick.
Digital video equipment has come a
long way, but only the most expensive cameras (over
$3,000 SRP) with shutter and f/stop controls will
provide you with good color from fireworks.
Good luck and happy shooting.
Ted
Walker, President
AddFire, Inc.
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